Travel Diary February 2024: Visiting Permaculture farms and gardens in Australia
Our adventure kicked off with a tour of David Holmgren and Su Dennett’s home and garden, a monthly tradition they've upheld for over twenty years. Located in Hepburn Springs, just a two-hour drive from Melbourne Airport, this charming country town was familiar to us—Yuuki and I had lived in Melbourne for five years and often visited the area, captivated by its vibrant coffee culture and beautiful farmers' markets.
We stayed at Hotel Frangos on Daylesford’s main street, where the atmosphere was cozy and inviting. Our first night included a delicious chicken parmigiana at the Royal Daylesford Hotel, followed by a surprising breakfast experience. We were able to select anything from the cafe's extensive menu as part of our accommodation package. I had eggs, bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms on sourdough toast, and a frothy cappuccino—enough to keep me satisfied until dinner.
After breakfast on day 2, we arrived at Melliodora, David and Su’s remarkable home. As we approached, David greeted us barefoot—something they both feel is an important part of their lifestyle. The tour had twenty participants, with the morning focused on the house and the afternoon dedicated to the garden. Su treated us to delightful snacks and refreshing drinks, setting a welcoming tone for our visit.
David shared his journey of finding a family home in the early 1980s, ultimately choosing Hepburn Springs for its proximity to clients for his budding permaculture consulting business. Originally planning to renovate an existing house, he found most homes poorly oriented for winter sun. Instead, he purchased land and built his dream home from mud-brick made from local soil and clay, with timber sourced from a nearby sawmill.
The design is stunning—particularly the greenhouse on the northern side, shaded by a pergola draped with grapevines. In summer, the vines block out harsh sunlight, while in winter, denuded of all leaves, they allow the sun to warm the greenhouse, which in turn warms the living spaces. Even on a scorching 36-degree day, the mud-brick floors and walls remained cool, showcasing the brilliance of their design. They didn’t need air conditioning or even a fan!
David noted how their comfortable home enables them to spend significant time growing, preparing, and preserving food, unlike typical families who often commute to work and dine in separate locations. This leads to a lot of energy wasted on vacant buildings while homes sit empty.
Thanks to their thoughtful design, maintenance is minimal. Su demonstrated a simple repair of a mud brick on their floor, using a mix of clay, water, and cow dung—materials they readily had at hand.
One highlight was their wood stove, which David lights every morning so that they can do their cooking. The chimney extends outside the kitchen wall to keep the kitchen cool in summer, and they also have a small gas burner for particularly hot days.
Despite the abundance of food they produce, Su and David have a surprisingly small fridge. Much of their food is stored in a "cool cupboard" that cleverly uses a vent to draw in cool air from outside, keeping vegetables and eggs fresh.
After a hearty lunch, we set out to explore the garden, where David and Su produce tons of fruits and vegetables. They have an impressive variety of fruit trees, including feijoas, figs, and apples. David was very knowledgeable about the changes in the wildlife populations due to the impact of monoculture farming, which has brought many cockatoos and galahs to his area of Victoria, where they previously were none. This means he must use nets to keep the cockatoos and galahs at bay. With his encouragement, we picked and tasted ripe plums, savoring their sweetness.
Melliodora also includes two additional residences, occupied by tenants who assist with gardening and farm chores. David and Su are dedicated to rehabilitating the creek that runs along their property, turning what was once a thorny blackberry thicket into a serene walking area, with help from their goats, which help manage the invasive plants.
After our long, refreshing walk, we returned to the house for tea and cake. As we said our goodbyes, I discovered a fellow participant was friends with my friend Sota from my permaculture course in Japan—what a happy coincidence! It seems the permaculture community is truly interconnected, with so many people happy to share their knowledge and experience.
To be continued..